Scrounged up three Bendix hydraulic brake boosters to maybe make one like I want. The top one is from a 99 Astro van, center Dodge flatbed and he bottom from a 94 Astro. Don't know what year the Dodge was as it was pretty much stripped. It was a gasser and had a long frame. Notice the angle of the 99 Astro mount plate and master cylinder. Maybe it will work better for the GMC. The blue and gold cylinders are accumulators with a nitrogen charge. Gold is for disc/ drum brakes charged to 350 lbs and blue for all disc brakes charged to 450 lbs. I'm looking to assemble a booster with a 1.56 power piston, .545 input rod and a .72 ratio lever. This will make a booster gain of a little more than 8 to 1.
The Dodge had a goofy angle adapter on the master cylinder end.
Angle adapter removed, now it has a pattern like GM uses.
Custom caveman square tube wrench used to remove the mount plate on the pedal end.
As Geico says a caveman can do it.
The input rod has to be cut in order to get it apart.
One solution is to thread the rod so any length extension can be fitted with whatever needs to be on the end to connect the pedal.
Scrounged up three Bendix hydraulic brake boosters to maybe make one like I want. The top one is from a 99 Astro van, center Dodge flatbed and he bottom from a 94 Astro. Don't know what year the Dodge was as it was pretty much stripped. It was a gasser and had a long frame. Notice the angle of the 99 Astro mount plate and master cylinder. Maybe it will work better for the GMC. The blue and gold cylinders are accumulators with a nitrogen charge. Gold is for disc/ drum brakes charged to 350 lbs and blue for all disc brakes charged to 450 lbs. I'm looking to assemble a booster with a 1.56 power piston, .545 input rod and a .72 ratio lever. This will make a booster gain of a little more than 8 to 1.
The Dodge had a goofy angle adapter on the master cylinder end.
Angle adapter removed, now it has a pattern like GM uses.
Custom caveman square tube wrench used to remove the mount plate on the pedal end.
As Geico says a caveman can do it.
The input rod has to be cut in order to get it apart.
One solution is to thread the rod so any length extension can be fitted with whatever needs to be on the end to connect the pedal.
