I'm using the caveman c-clamp method of compressing the accumulator so the lock ring can be removed. There is an official tool for this but I don't have one. The pin punch fits in a hole that pushes the lock ring in enough to fish it out with a seal pick. The accumulator goes in about 1/8 inch against the stop in the housing. If the nitrogen is gone the accumulator will wiggle in the housing as there is no pressure pushing it out...one test for a bad accumulator.
There is an O ring that seals the housing to the accumulator. The lock ring is at the bottom of the picture.
The blue accumulator is for disc/disc brakes charged to 450 psi and the gold for disc/drum brakes at 350 psi. Gold is the type needed for our GMC with original brakes. There are other types of these, some remote mount types and at least one using a spring instead of nitrogen for pressure.
A view of the housing with the accumulator removed.
i have the blue accumulator.. have been at shop now for three weeks and the mechanics here havent been able to bleed system fnally today steering and brakes work fne but now when you turn engine off the power steerng flud spills out. is this a bad accumulator? if so can it be relaced or do need the whole hydroboost system relaced? any help would be very appreciated.
ReplyDeleteI'd say it has not bled all the air out or its too full.
ReplyDeleteWhen you give the pressures of 350 and 450, you are referring to the Nitrogen charge on the backside of that accumulator, right?
ReplyDeleteThe hydraulic pressure on the front side should be equal to the output pressure coming from the power steering pump, if I am not mistaken, There isn't an oil pressure regulator between the pump and the accumulator as far as I know. Please correct me.
Yes nitrogen precharge pressure. I can't find where I read 350-450- psi but it does seem logical
DeleteSo where do you get replacement accumulator
ReplyDeleteIt seems only approved rebuilders can get accumulators so I made my own adapter
ReplyDelete