Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Touch-plate relay fix

Sue's Touch-Plate lighting system had a relay that wouldn't switch. Took it apart lubed the step wheel , shaft and ratchet with graphite and now it switches again. These things get cooked in the attic. This relay is a 1550B, no longer available and has been replaced by a touch-plate 3000 relay.
These have a 28 volt dc coil and are supposed to change state every time they get a pulse. This one just thumped and had quit turning off and on,

Relay bank in the attic

 disassembled and lubed with powdered graphite.
 Bench test using a 20 volt laptop power brick. Relays are 28 volt so if 20 does it 28 should too.
testing, now it works
 New style 3000 relay in the middle of the image, It is wider and has screw terminals.

Thursday, December 18, 2014

Man versus Machine, Amana/speed queen washing machine repair

Our 15+ year old wash machine started leaking.
Power test with the covers off showed it was the tub seal underneath. There was  oil getting on some clothes so there might be water in the transmisson too.
This is the hub and seal kit that fits our Amana model ALW880QAC,  Whirlpool part number R99000457. Got the kit from Amazon along with a main bearing 40004201P which is also a Whirlpool part number
 Seal kit

The agitator just snaps over the drive ball. I used a couple pry bars to get it off.

Drive ball off the spline The seal is supposed to be stuck to the hub so it was leaking.
spindle nut remove
 Hub was a battle to get off. Three jaw puller and an air hammer to vibrate it was used. The hub being corroded was the problem, both seal areas were bad. there was a lint filter between the inner tub and the hub. I left it out because it seemed to trap junk by the seal.
Transmission and "milk stool". Removing main bearing.

Checking transmission for water in the oil, it was OK. This transmission has all metal gears, good stuff. Speed queen makes quality transmissions even today. 3m800 sealant was called out for the outer tub seal. hard to get. I used permatex aviation form-a-gasket instead. No pics of that and no leaks yet ha.
Old hub and drive ball seal. Hub was very corroded.
Lower tub seal, bearing and the bottom of the hub These were really bad. Glad to get it back going.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Brake pressure testing adapters

Made up adapters to test brake pressure at the caliper bleeder fittings. One is 5/16-24 thread and the other 3/8-24.

Saturday, December 6, 2014

Disabling dual mode charge on a Honda CRV

Sue's 2010 Honda CRV has had problems with the battery not getting a complete charge under some driving conditions. We first had issues when it was 6 months old... battery to low to start it. Took it back to Honda and they said nothing was wrong. It did the same thing a couple other times so we replaced the battery at 3 years old. Now a year later it did it again, It seems some Honda U.S. models have a dual mode charging scheme for economy. Short version is the battery charges to 14.4 - 14.9 volts IF there is a 15 amp load as determined by a load detector. IF there is less than 15 amps load the charging voltage is set to 12.4-12.9, there are some other conditions that override this as set in the ECU.
The car needs to be reliable for how we use it so something needs to change. It has no non-factory electronics except a dash cam that shuts off with the ignition.
Description of Dual Mode
The above are the best information I could find.
It seems the voltage regulator is in the alternator and not the ECU. The voltage regulator has two setpoints controlled by the ECU grounding or letting float the "C" connection to the alternator. The "C" wire is white/green and is supposed to be the same across Honda models. What I did was cut the white/green wire and fold it back in the harness. Now the alternator charges like a normal car at 14.4-14.9 volts. Voltage seems to follow temperature as it should like a normal car.  The battery has not used water from overcharging.No codes have been set either. I think it will work for us now.